TripOutside Trip Report · San Juan Mountains, Colorado
Highland Mary Lakes: A Two-Day San Juan Backpacking Trip Report
Two days through Colorado’s San Juan Mountains—up Cunningham Gulch to a string of alpine lakes, a night camped at nearly 12,000 feet, and a high tundra traverse under the spires of the Grenadier Range. Scroll the story below; the map follows every step.
Some trips you just want to relive frame by frame — this was one of them. Here it is the way we actually experienced it: photo by photo, with the GPS track from the trail so you can see exactly where each moment happened. Scroll slowly and the map flies to the spot every picture was taken.
A few things about the timing of the trip, this has been an extremely dry year for the area and it was noticeable. The snowpack is all gone, the waterfalls are smaller, the streams are shallower and narrower. We are all subconsciously seeing and feeling the impact of such drastic environmental change but trying to stay positive and get outside and enjoy the beauty of the San Juan Mountains. I’ve really been wanting to get into backpacking more and spending more time away from my phone, I really wanted to go backpacking this weekend and when our friends Sophie and Tom invited us and told us about their plans, we were in and jumped on the opportunity last minute. I had been dealing with some back pain issues, so I wasn’t sure if I would be able to make it out for multiple days, but I wanted to start the process this summer.
We just did a 2-day, 1-night trip, but this was exactly the amount of unplugged microdose of nature that I needed. I have been becoming increasingly aware of the need for me to unplug more as I spend more time online building TripOutside, researching gear, or catching up on endless notifications from chats. Many times, I build up backpacking trips as if they need to be some epic journeys and trips and I wanted to throw all that pressure away and go for 1 night, but more often. So here is the beta on our short but sweet, 24-ish hour backpacking trip near the Highland Mary Lakes, slightly north of Silverton.
The trail begins
Packs on, we leave the Cunningham Gulch trailhead and start up a green ribbon of valley, a creek tumbling alongside and the high country waiting somewhere above.
One last look down-valley
A breather on a rocky step to look back — the valley already dropping away below the crew, pup included.
Peak wildflower season
Mid-summer in the San Juans and the tundra is showing off: fringed blue gentian and lacy cow parsnip crowding the trail’s edge.
Into the krummholz
The forest thins to wind-stunted spruce and talus. The pup scouts ahead as the climb steepens toward treeline.
Almost to the lakes
A quick trailside portrait where the creek spills through the rocks — grinning, a little winded, and nearly there.
First water
The trail crests and there it is: the first of the Highland Mary Lakes, glass-still with its own tiny island. The pup makes a beeline for the shore.
Rosy paintbrush
Even up here, color everywhere — rosy paintbrush glowing against the alpine green.
Weighing the weather
Packs heavy with camp, we pause at the water’s edge to watch clouds pile up on the far ranges — a mountain habit you never quite break.
The basin opens up
Above the lakes the world goes wide: a chain of tarns strung across the tundra, two tiny hikers for scale under an enormous sky.
Evening at the lake
Packs off at last. A quiet sit by the water beneath the snow-streaked ridge as the light goes soft.
Camp, dinner, and a very good dog
Tent up, down jackets on, and two Farm to Summit meals steaming in hand at nearly 12,000 feet. Best dinner view in Colorado.
Morning, lakeside
Day two. The tent glows in a meadow of wildflowers with the lake at our doorstep — the kind of morning that makes the packs worth it.
The Grenadiers reveal themselves
We climb onto the divide and the payoff lands: the jagged granite of the Grenadier Range tearing up the southern skyline.
Walking the sky
Up on the open ridge, three specks and a dog trace the horizon under a ceiling of high, wispy cloud.
Miles of tundra
Hour after hour of rolling alpine — soft trail, big country, range after range fading into the haze.
The high point
Around 12,700 feet: pink granite scattered across the tundra and snowfields still clinging to the peaks in July.
Trail-buddy check-in
The pup circles back to make sure we’re keeping up, singletrack unspooling toward the next ridge.
Can’t stop looking
One more long pause to take in the Grenadiers’ spires across the basin — the kind of view that stops you mid-stride.
Starting down
The trail tips over and begins the long descent, green ridgelines folding away toward the valley and the truck.
Back in the trees
A last surprise near the bottom — a waterfall pouring through a mossy forest gorge. The mountains’ way of saying come back soon.
Stewardship
Leave No Trace on public lands
It was Fourth of July weekend — and as a naturalized citizen, there is nothing I love more about the United States than the public lands this country offers its citizens. To be out on them, sharing them with fellow citizens, felt extra special on this occasion, the way it does on every holiday for me. Which is exactly why treading lightly matters so much. Here’s how we tried to honor these mountains, principle by principle.
1. Plan ahead and prepare
With wildfires burning near Dolores and Ouray, planning wasn’t optional — it was critical. We checked smoke direction, fire restrictions, our travel plans, and water availability along the trail before we ever left the house.
2. Travel and camp on durable surfaces
Getting up to the lakes, it’s so tempting to grab the spot closest to the water. But as an LNT instructor, this one’s been drilled into me: the best campsites are found, not made. We carefully chose spots that had already been camped on, so we didn’t disturb the fragile alpine vegetation.
3. Dispose of waste properly
The high country doesn’t break waste down easily, so packing everything out is essential up here. We carried wag bags and similar products from PACT for ourselves — and, of course, packed out after our dogs too.
4. Leave what you find
We left every wildflower exactly where it was and took only pictures.
5. Minimize campfire impacts
In conditions this dry, a campfire was simply a no.
6. Respect wildlife
We spotted marmots and knew there could be moose around, so we kept the dogs close to make sure they didn’t chase any wildlife. We also stored our food in bear canisters so we wouldn’t draw anything toward the tents.
7. Be considerate of other visitors
We camped at a distance from other groups and kept our voices (relatively) low, so everyone out there with us could enjoy the solitude the wilderness is there to offer.
Plan your own
Resources
Thinking about your own Highland Mary Lakes trip? Here’s the gear we leaned on and where to rent what you need.
Gear mentioned in the post
PACT Outdoors packout kit and WAG bags to pack human waste out
Outfitters that rent gear or sell used gear
Backcountry Experience in Durango: We rented our bear canister
Durango Outdoor Exchange for great deals on used gear
Two days, one perfect alpine basin, and a whole lot of tundra. The San Juans have a way of packing a big trip into a short window — and Highland Mary Lakes is about as good as it gets for a first overnight into this range.
Want to plan your own? Guided treks, gear rentals, and local outfitters across the San Juans can help you get out there.
