The TripOutside podcast showcases insightful conversations with guides, outdoor industry experts and entrepreneurs to discuss the best outdoor destinations and activities. In Episode 5, we talk to Steve Piragis, the co-founder of Piragis Northwoods Co about his journey of starting an outfitting business, learning about how the Boundary Waters Wilderness got established and how it’s changed over time, and what he loves about the area.

You can listen to the podcast episode on Google Podcasts, Apple Podcasts, YouTube or Spotify. Below is an edited transcript of the episode, sharing Steve’s experience of Boundary Waters and some of his advice for travelers wanting to explore the area.

Looking for a true wilderness escape? The Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness (BWCA) is one of the most unique adventure destinations in North America — a paddler’s paradise with over 1,000 lakes carved by glaciers, 1.1 million acres of protected land, and endless miles of waterways to explore.

We sat down with Piragis Northwoods Company, one of the premier outfitters in Ely, Minnesota, to get the beta on planning your first (or next) canoe trip. Whether you’re a first-time paddler or a seasoned wilderness traveler, here’s what makes the BWCA a bucket-list adventure.

What Makes the Boundary Waters Special?

The BWCA was established as part of the 1964 Wilderness Act and later expanded in 1978, preserving one of the largest wilderness areas in the U.S. Along with Ontario’s Quetico Provincial Park, it creates over 2 million acres of contiguous, roadless wilderness.

This boreal forest landscape is unlike anywhere else:

• Over 1,000 interconnected lakes and rivers, perfect for paddling and portaging.
• Rugged rock ridges, islands, and quiet forests shaped by glaciers.
• A subtle, meditative beauty — loons calling at night, endless stars, and sunsets over glassy water.

“You could paddle here every summer for 20 years and still discover new lakes,” says the team at Piragis. “It’s truly endless.”

How to Get to the Boundary Waters

Most travelers fly into Minneapolis (MSP) or Duluth (DLH) before making their way north to Ely or Grand Marais, the two main gateways to the BWCA. Ely is considered the “Canoe Capital of the World,” with 23 entry points nearby and dozens of outfitters (Piragis among them).

From Duluth, it’s about a two-hour drive to Ely and the Canadian border. If you’re not renting a car, Piragis can help arrange shuttles to and from your entry point.

Boundary Waters Permits: How They Work

Because this is a federally protected wilderness, you’ll need a permit to enter the BWCA — even for day trips.

• Permits are issued via Recreation.gov and typically open in late January for the upcoming summer.
• Each permit corresponds to a specific entry point and date. After entering, you can travel freely, camping at designated sites (no campsite reservations required).
• While some summer dates book quickly (especially July and early August), there are usually plenty of options through the season.

When to Visit the BWCA

Each season offers something different:

• May (Ice-Out to Mid-May): Quiet, cold waters, no bugs, and fewer visitors.
• June: Birds, wildflowers, and long days — but also peak bug season (pick breezy campsites).
• July–Mid August: Warmest water, busiest season (lots of scouts, families, and groups). Best for swimming and family trips.
• Late August–September: Cooler nights, fewer people, great fishing, and stunning fall colors.
• October–April (Winter Trips): Ice fishing, skiing, and snowshoeing once the lakes freeze (usually by Christmas).

Is the Boundary Waters Beginner-Friendly?

Absolutely. Piragis calls the BWCA “the easiest wilderness you can experience while still feeling remote.” Unlike backpacking, canoe trips allow you to carry comfort items — a real chair, a cooler, or even cream for your coffee — without hauling everything on your back.

For first-timers:

• Some routes require no portaging at all (just paddle in and set up camp).
• Others involve multiple portages — short hikes carrying gear between lakes. For many paddlers, portaging is part of the magic, offering a closer look at the forest and wildlife.
• Outfitters like Piragis can plan your route based on your comfort level and provide everything from Kevlar canoes (only ~40 lbs) to full gear packages so you don’t need to buy expensive equipment.

Gear Has Changed — Trips Are Easier Than Ever

Since the 1970s, the Boundary Waters experience has gotten a lot lighter:

• Kevlar canoes weigh 40 pounds (vs. 75+ for old aluminum canoes).
• Carbon fiber paddles and lightweight tents and sleeping pads make portaging and camping more comfortable.
• Piragis replaces its outfitting gear annually, so every spring, renters use nearly new canoes, tents, and packs.

The only items Piragis doesn’t provide in full outfitting packages? Water filters and fishing gear (available for purchase in their shop).

Glamping, Hardcore, or Somewhere in Between

The BWCA can be as rugged or as cushy as you want:

• Motorized tow-ins (like to Black LaCroix) make remote lakes accessible without portaging, letting you bring luxuries like coolers and fresh food.
• Multi-portage expeditions suit those seeking a challenge — think 12 portages a day for six days.
• Many families choose a basecamp approach, setting up on a big lake and taking day trips to waterfalls, fishing holes, and scenic overlooks.

Why the Boundary Waters Stays Memorable

Beyond the scenery and solitude, the BWCA creates connections:

• Campfire stories and shared meals bring people together.
• Loons, moose, and the occasional wolf sighting add wild magic.
• And for many, it’s about disconnecting from the noise of daily life and settling into a simpler rhythm.

As Piragis puts it: “It only takes a day or two before you stop thinking about emails or deadlines and start noticing the sound of wind in the pines.”

Book Your Boundary Waters Canoe Trip

Ready to explore this bucket-list wilderness? Whether you want a fully outfitted canoe trip, a simple Kevlar canoe rental, or expert trip planning, check out Piragis Northwoods Company in Ely, MN. Their team has been helping paddlers explore the BWCA since 1979 and can help beginners and seasoned travelers alike plan the perfect adventure.

And while you’re planning, don’t forget to support efforts to Save the Boundary Waters from threats like sulfide-ore copper mining — so this incredible wilderness stays wild for future generations.